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9-Inch Vs. 12-Bolt Rearend
Compararison
Chevy High Performance Magazine
Evaluates The Advantages And Disadvantages Of
Both Rearends
By Scott Crouse
Photography: Jeff Smith,
Scott Crouse
Let's face it, performance cars are all
about discovering the weak link in the chain. As
soon as you start making serious horsepower,
what happens? You break a transmission or a
rearend because it's too weak. Darwin taught us
that only the strong survive. This means that
you can forget the spindly 7.5- and 8.2-inch
10-bolts. They're cannon fodder. For this story,
we're going to compare the 12-bolt to the
much-vaunted Ford 9-inch to evaluate the
advantages and disadvantages of both rearends.
To help us with our quest, we contacted Randy's
Ring and Pinion to track all the
variables.
The 12-bolt and 9-inch rears are actually
more similar than they are different. The major
difference between the two is the design of the
housings. The 12-bolt integral design features a
carrier case and pinion support that are part of
the rearend housing, while the 9-inch employs a
drop-out third member that takes advantage of an
independent carrier case and pinion support that
bolts into the rearend housing.
12-Bolts to Glory The GM 12-bolt
debuted in 1965 and was mass-produced until
1972. It features an 8.875-inch ring-gear
carrier held in place with two internal main
caps. The pinion gearshaft measures 1.625 inches
in diameter and is shimmed to achieve the proper
pinion depth. The pinion gear splines to a yoke
that mates with the driveshaft's rear universal
joint. The three most common types of yokes are
the 1310-, 1330-, and 1350-series units, but the
12-bolt generally uses the smallest, 1310-style
U-joint.
Factory axles come in a 30-spline
configuration and slide into the side gears.
Instead of bolting the axles in place, stock GM
>> 10- and 12-bolts use small C-clips over
the ends of the axles to hold them in place.
This requires removing the rear cover, draining
the oil, and extracting the center pin in order
to pull the C-clips to remove the axles (whew!).
Axle bearings are pressed into the tube with the
outside diameter of the axleshaft acting as the
inner bearing brace. The downside to this idea
is that if the bearing fails, it takes out the
axle too.
The 12-bolt is more complicated to assemble
because it uses a shim between the pinion gear
and the inboard pinion bearing. Since this
bearing is pressed on, it must be removed with a
press to change the pinion shim to adjust the
pinion depth. Also, the ring-gear backlash is
adjusted with shims as well. This requires the
proper thickness of shims on both sides to
ensure the carrier bearings are preloaded and
that the backlash is correct. All of this is not
difficult but does require specialty tools to
accomplish. While original 12-bolt housings are
becoming rare, Moser has stepped into the void
with a brand-new housing configured for all the
popular Chevy body styles.
When the 12-bolt rearend is properly
assembled, it's the strongest passenger-vehicle
rearend Chevy ever produced. GM engineers
designed the 12-bolt to be a durable piece that
could handle the torque output of its big
displacement engines.
The Big 9-Inch
The 9-inch Ford rearend has established
itself as the high-water mark for rear axle
strength and durability. The 9-inch has become
so pervasive in the performance market that you
can purchase bolt-in 9-inch housings from
companies like Currie Enterprises and Randy's
Ring and Pinion for any Chevrolet body style you
can conjure up.
The 9-inch rearend was first mass-produced
by Ford Motor Company in 1957 and continued for
30 years. While the 9-inch uses many similar
pieces to the 12-bolt, it configures them in a
somewhat more convenient and durable package. A
9-inch rearend features a stamped housing with
nothing more than axletubes welded on each end.
This type of rearend is easier to service
because of its removable centersection that
houses the gearset. This removable gear case
houses a differential unit that the ring gear
bolts onto. The 9-inch uses a bolt-on external
pinion support that locates the large pinion
bearing. But an added plus for the 9-inch is an
internal rear-pinion support that also supports
the gear end of the pinion to limit gear
deflection under high torque loads.
Like the 12-bolt, the 9-inch pinion gear is
shimmed to achieve the proper pinion depth with
a small pinion shaft diameter of 1.313 inches.
Another difference between the two rearends is
that the 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on
the ring gear to improve tooth contact. This
strengthens the rearend assembly but at the cost
of approximately 2 to 3 percent loss of power to
drive the gears compared to a 12-bolt. Of
course, the sizes of the gears, cases, and
bearings are relevant to strength, so you have
to give the strength comparison to the 9-inch
with its 0.125-inch larger ring-gear diameter
and internal pinion support.
Another advantage to the 9-inch is that the
axles are easier to install and remove. Ford
designed the factory 28- and 31-spline axles to
be removable by yanking four bolts per axle
flange, which allows the axle to slide out. The
axles have pressed-on bearings and retainer
plates that bolt to the housing flanges. There
are no C-clips inside the rearend holding them
in place like on a 12-bolt. The plus here for
the 9-inch is that if you break an axle inside
the housing, the axle retainer will keep the
axle in place. On a 12-bolt, breaking an axle
means it slides right out of the housing,
causing massive sheetmetal damage along the way.
You can convert a 12-bolt to the 9-inch style of
axle retention, but it requires a C-clip
eliminator kit and modifications to the
housing.
Ultimately, the selection of 9-inch vs.
12-bolt comes down to personal preference. If
you are building a cruiser and want to keep
everything GM, the 12-bolt is more than capable
of taking the abuse. On the other hand, if you
plan to flog your Bow Tie machine with slicks
and lots of torque, it's hard to beat the
9-inch's strength and ease of service. Both are
great pieces, so we'll let you decide.
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A complete 12-bolt rearend
with drum brakes weighs around 185 pounds. It
uses 2 to 3 percent less power than a 9-inch and
even factory pieces are capable of withstanding
500 hp using 30-spline axles.
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The typical 9-inch rearend
weighs in around 177 pounds (without brakes). A
benefit of this design is that its third member
can be easily accessed, and the factory
components are capable of withstanding even more
torque with 31-spline axles.
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The three most common types
of yokes are the 1310-, 1330-, and 1350-series
units. While factory 12-bolt rearends usually
come with a 1310-style yoke, it's always a good
idea to step up the size. The Randy's Ring and
Pinion third member on the right is equipped
with a larger 1330-series yoke.
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One of the major differences
between a 12-bolt and a 9-inch is that that the
9-inch offsets the pinion to the passenger side,
creating unequal-length axles. These are a pair
of 31-spline, 9-inch axles.
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From left to right you can
see how the carrier unit and ring gear bolt to
the case mains. Completing the third member is a
pinion gear that's shimmed for proper gear-tooth
contact and held firmly by a pinion support and
driveshaft yoke.
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The weak link on a factory
9-inch gear case is the inner pinion
support.
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Notice the additional
material around the pinion support on the 9+
race case. This factory case broke due to
multiple high-torque load applications--clutch
dumps.
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If you are planning on racing
with a 9-inch rearend, the 9+ case is the way to
go. Randy's can build a complete centersection
to your individual needs. This unit features a
9+ race case, an anodized-aluminum pinion
support, a forged yoke, a Detroit locker carrier
unit, and a set of 4.11 gears.
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Companies like Randy's,
Moser, and Currie also offer complete 12-bolts
ready to race. These rearends are virtually
indestructible and employ thick-wall tubing,
reinforced main caps, top-quality carrier units,
and almost any rearend ratio you can imagine.
The 12-bolt housings can also be ordered with
9-inch axle ends to eliminate the weak C-clip
design.
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Not all drop-out Ford
rearends are 9-inch units. The easiest way to
identify them is by examining the two lowest
gear-case bolts. If the bolts are covered so
that only a wrench will fit over them, it's a
9-inch. If you can get a socket over these
bolts, it's not.
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One disadvantage to the
9-inch is its weight. One way to lighten the
assembly is with an aluminum centersection like
this one from Strange. Strange also offers a
slick aluminum centersection designed to use
12-bolt gears and internal parts.
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